India has hot summers, humid monsoons and a long tradition of cotton weaving. If you are choosing kurtis, suits or co-ord sets for everyday wear, understanding the main kinds of cotton will help you buy something that feels good in the heat and lasts wash after wash.
Mulmul (muslin) cotton
Mulmul is a very soft, fine, lightweight cotton with a loose weave. It is airy and gentle on the skin, which makes it a favourite for dupattas, summer kurtas and baby clothes. Because it is so fine, it can be slightly sheer, so lining or darker colours help.
Cambric cotton
Cambric is a fine, tightly woven cotton with a smooth, slightly crisp finish. It holds its shape better than mulmul, takes prints well and is widely used for printed suit sets. Heavier cambric or lawn fabrics suit embroidered suits because they support the stitching.
Handloom cotton
Handloom cottons are woven on hand-operated looms across India and often have a slightly uneven, characterful texture. They soften with every wash and are valued for breathability. Small irregularities in weave are part of the charm, not a defect.
Cotton-linen blends
Blending cotton with linen adds a crisp, textured look and excellent airflow. Cotton-linen creases more easily than plain cotton but dries fast and feels cool, which is why it is popular for co-ord sets, shirts and tunics.
How to choose cotton for the season
- Peak summer: mulmul or cotton-linen in light colours.
- Monsoon: quick-drying cotton-linen or lawn; avoid very thick fabrics that stay damp.
- Festive daywear: embroidered or printed cambric cotton.
- Office: smooth, tightly woven cottons that resist creasing.
Washing cotton properly
Wash new cotton separately in cold water for the first few washes, especially dark or block-printed colours, as they can release a little dye. Turn embroidered pieces inside out, dry in shade to protect colour and iron while slightly damp. Cotton may shrink a little on the first wash, so check the size chart and allow for it.