Brocade, ikat, jacquard, block print, zardozi – product descriptions are full of textile words. This plain-English glossary explains the main weaves, prints and embellishments you will meet when shopping for Indian clothing.
Weaves: how the fabric is made
- Plain weave: the simplest over-under weave. Cotton, chiffon and muslin are usually plain weave.
- Twill: a diagonal weave, sturdy and drapey (think denim).
- Satin weave: long floating threads give a glossy, smooth surface.
- Jacquard: a loom system that creates complex woven patterns automatically.
- Brocade: a rich woven fabric with raised patterns, often with metallic zari threads, as in Banarasi sarees.
- Ikat: threads are resist-dyed in patterns before weaving, giving soft, feathered edges to motifs. Found in Odisha, Telangana and Gujarat.
Prints and dyeing
- Block print: designs stamped onto cloth with carved wooden blocks, famous in Rajasthan.
- Bandhani / bandhej: tie-dye where tiny knots resist the dye, creating dotted patterns.
- Kalamkari: hand-painted or block-printed storytelling motifs using natural dyes.
- Digital print: designs printed by machine, allowing detailed, colourful patterns at accessible prices.
Embroidery and embellishment
- Zari / zardozi: metallic thread work, from fine borders to heavy raised embroidery.
- Thread (resham) work: coloured thread embroidery in floral and geometric designs.
- Chikankari: delicate white-on-white or tonal hand embroidery from Lucknow.
- Sequin and stone work: sparkle for party wear.
- Mirror work: tiny mirrors stitched into the cloth, popular in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
- Ghungroo and tassel trims: small bells or beaded tassels along borders and pallus, adding movement and sound.
Reading a product description
A good listing names the base fabric (for example silk, georgette, cotton), the technique (woven, printed or embroidered) and the finishing (border, trims). If a term is unclear, it is fine to ask before buying – a good seller will explain.