Patola sarees are famous for their bold geometric and floral motifs and their almost mirror-like crispness on both sides of the cloth. The genuine article is one of India’s most prized textiles – and the word “patola” is also used more loosely for sarees inspired by it. Here is how to tell them apart.
The original: Patan patola
Authentic Patan patola comes from Patan in Gujarat and is made using double ikat. In ikat, threads are tied and dyed in patterns before weaving. In double ikat, both the warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) threads are resist-dyed and must line up perfectly on the loom to form the design. The work is extremely precise and slow – a single saree can take many months – which is why authentic patola is rare and expensive. Patan patola also carries a GI tag.
How to recognise real double-ikat
- The pattern looks the same on both sides of the fabric.
- Design edges have a slightly soft, feathered outline, a hallmark of ikat dyeing.
- Colours are deep and saturated, usually on silk.
- The price reflects months of skilled work.
Famous patola motifs
Classic patola designs include repeating chhabdi (basket-like), navratan (nine-jewel), diamond and flower-and-elephant motifs, usually arranged in tidy repeating rows with a contrast border.
Patola-print and patola-inspired sarees
Many sarees on the market are printed or machine-woven in patola-inspired patterns. They capture the bright colours and geometry at a fraction of the cost, and are a lovely, practical way to enjoy the look for weddings and festivals. Just be clear on what you are buying: a patola-print saree is not a hand-woven double-ikat piece, and it should be priced and described accordingly. Our patola-print sarees are shown as exactly that – a print inspired by the classic design.
Styling a patola saree
Because the pattern is busy and the colours are strong, keep the blouse simple – a solid in one of the saree’s colours works best – and choose understated jewellery. Patola looks stunning with a traditional Gujarati-style drape (seedha pallu) but works with any style.